Fluker Labs Under Tank Heater Mat - Small, 6 Inch x 11 Inch

I built a cage from 3/8" birch plywood. The ambient room temperature is a bit cool in the winter for my california kingsnake, so I placed the heat mat underneath the cage, and it covers about half the cage floor. Though the the manufacturer recommends against placing the mat underneath a wooden cage, it seems to work well; perhaps it wouldn't on thicker wood. This heat mat doesn't have adhesive on the surface, which differs from other brands, but I prefer this arrangement. The cage is set on 2 x 4s edgewise, and the edges of the pad are supported by the 2 x 4s. Using a spacer, or not, you can adjust the proximity of the mat to the bottom surface of the cage--flush against the cage would be warmer and with spacers it would be cooler. I have ordered a dimmer switch to adjust the temperature, but this may not be necessary.I am well pleased with this heat mat, and the shipping time was amazingly quick--2 days with regular shipping!When using a heat mat for reptiles, it's necessary to provide a gradient of heat-cool in the cage so the animal can move about and thermoregulate. In my cage I have a shelf added for two levels. The snake can spend time on the upper level retreat or in the rock cave on the lower, heated level.

has worked great so far. But if you are someone that needs a specific temperature range consistently...then definitely buy a thermostat to go with it and also a infrared thermometer bc this on its own may get too hot for your animal. I have a leopard gecko which needs a certain surface temp range on one end of the cage and this alone would cause the temperature to exceed what I needed .so I have this connected to a digital thermostat (jumpstart thermostat) to be able to control the temperature. And I say to buy a infrared thermometer...to double check things. Bc At first I set the thermostat to 90 degrees. Once the thermostat showed it had reached 90...i double checked surface temp with a infrared thermometer to make sure things were accurate. Upon checking..... the surface of the glass directly was also at 90 degrees .(my heating mat is placed on the underside of the bottom of the glass tank ). But the surface temp of my reptile carpet that's over top the area I have this heating mat....was not reaching 90 degrees. It was several degrees cooler below the range I needed. So it seems this mat is really only heating the surface temp of the glass itself to ideal temp...but not actually penetrating the carpet enough to heat the surface temp of. The carpet to ideal temp. And the carpet temp surface is what matters in my case. So I had to end up adjusting my thermostat higher.

I've purchased two of these heat mats over the past couple of months for my sand boas. They're extremely thin and non-adhesive, which for me, is a plus. You don't need to worry about damaging the mats if you upgrade enclosures, unlike Zoo Med mats.However, they do not come with anything to raise a tank up for under tank heating. It's not necessary for Exo Terra enclosures, but if you have a regular tank, you'll need to engineer some type of method to allow airflow underneath. Luckily, I still have the feet from an old Zoo Med mat.Like all UTH, you'll need a thermostat in addition to the mat to keep things at safe temperatures. I am able to maintain the 95° hot spots for my sand boas with these. They will not raise ambient temperatures though, so you'll need a CHE as a secondary source if you're like me and have a cold house.Outside of lacking something to raise your enclosure, I am very satisfied with these heat mats. I've had no issues so far with durability, but it's only been a few months.

No problems with this so far. Used along with a thermostat, it has kept my terrarium nice and toasty. Hermit crab approved!

I keep a young ball python in a 20 gallon terrarium, and ordered the appropriate size mat. It is priced well for what it is. It has not over heated... but that may only be because I have it running via a thermostat. No adhesive; which is actually a positive thing. Removal is easy and mess-free when cleaning the enclosure. I highly recommend FOIL TAPE as adhesive. It is heat resistant and clean.This mat will most likely only raise your animals "basking side" a few degrees. You will need another source of heat- probably an overhead heat emitter or lamp. However, this is a good source of "belly heat". ALWAYS have this mat or any UTH controlled by a THERMOSTAT to avoid injury or worse to your animal.Overall, not a bad product so far.

This is a wonderful heat mat. The only unusual bit about this one is that it does not contain an adhesive. You have to use the thin aluminum tape to secure this to your tank or bin. I LOVED this aspect of the mat because it makes it totally reusuable and it doesn't ruin the side of a tank. The 11x11 mat is also the perfect size for my dubia roach colony in my rubbermaid bin. Although I have a thermostat hooked up to hit, I really don't have to as the heat never exceeds my setting on the thermostat. I'm very pleased with this heatmat and it's probably my favorite out fo the few that I've tried. The price was on point, too!

I have used the zoo med uth prior to this and find this one much easier to deal with. The reason I purchased this one to fit in a 29 gallon tank which footprint wise is essentially a 20L for my snake. After using the zoo med one for some time with their recommended sizing, it just didn't seem to cover enough space, 6x8 opposed to 11x11 which is almost a perfect 1/3 of the floor. I enjoy not having any adhesive on the bottom as it allows me to fit a thermostat probe on it easily and move it around in the future if needed. Currently mine is attached at the corners using some foil tape. No worries if you stuck it on correctly or not. You do need future risers which I already had from my zoo med ok though. Simply put, it works and is a no nonsense kind of product.