Qty 6 OMRON D2FC-F-7N Micro Switch Microswitch Switches for Razer Apple MS Mouse

Getting the mouse apart was the hardest part of replacing the switches. Unsoldering the originals and putting these in was fairly easy. I liked that these are the same switch used by the factory. So no surprises, they fit and function perfectly. They made great replacements for an aging mouse with double click problems. I'm glad I bought them. And I have extras for the other Logitech M510 mice that I have. I would expect a similar life to the factory original switches.

going strong after months of abuse. still strong audible and tactile clicks each time with no doubling or early release on a click and hold. soldering them into my logitech mouse was easy (getting the stupid thing apart was not).having a few extra on hand has also helped when i had a failure of another left clicker on a different mouse.

I have a Logitech Marble FX that is maybe 20 years old. It uses a Matsushita microswitch that has exactly the same dimensions as the D2FC, with one exception: the two holes through the body of the microswitch are 2.0mm in a Matsushita and only about 1.5mm in an Omron.The holes are largely a holdover from the larger versions of similar switches, like you probably have in several of your appliances. For an inch-long switch, mounting it via two 6-32 screws makes sense. For a 0.45 inch (11mm) switch, you're not going to try to mount it with 2-56 screws. Mice either mount it using only the PC board pins, or put a clip around the entire body... except the Logictech Trackman Marble FX. The right button (and only the right button) mounts the switch with two plastic pins going through the holes in the switch.Normally, I'd do something like swapping switches, moving a Matsushita from the left button to the right and mounting a new Omron in the left, but did I mention 20+ year old hardware. I didn't want an older button to die from desoldering and resoldering.So, I ordered the Omrons to experiment, see if I could enlarge the holes. It turns out you can.1) Do not use a miniature reamer (scratch one of my pack of 6)2) Do not use a needle file (scratch two of my pack of 6)Use a 2mm or 5/64 inch drill. Run it fast, use a sharp titanium bit, and feed straight. Turns out there's enough plastic in the vicinity of the mounting holes that enlarging them to 2mm does not break through and let plastic dust into the switch or anything.My trackball lives again. And I have spare switches left.

awesome. I have a small pile of Logitech M570 mice with a bad left button. I've paid over $200 buying replacement trackballs the past 6 years. This little $1.00 button was a quick and easy fix. Took me about an hour to fix the first mouse and only cost $1.00. I could not be happier. The new switch has the left clicker working like new. I will be replacing the clicker in the rest of the trackballs.

Received the batch of 6 switches. They have a solid audible "click" and appear to be made well (the batch I received). The stems are a little short for the SteelSeries Rival 300 back button but I was able to manipulate the solder enough for a good solid mount. The back button worked and was tested to ensure it. The LMB would not accept this switch though, was worth the try but bummed that it would not work. Either way it was a learning process for me to see if the switch would be accepted by the board. Tried 2 of the switches just to be sure of any unseen damages but it was still a no go. I will note that this is NOT the fault of the product purchased but a possible issue with compatibility or even the board I personally have. Do not let that comment sway you from giving it a try, the switches I received were very nice. Would still highly recommend to those based on build quality. Worth attempting, especially for less then $6 to potentially fix a $60-70 unit.

Yo dawg, we heard you like to click so we added some extra loud click to complement your clack so you can clickity while you clackity!.....Giggity....Do you enjoy loud clicking sounds? Do you want to feel the solid tactile sensation of a click to simulate the crack of the bullet entering your FPS opponent’s skull? Then boy do I recommend these switches!With a solid tactile sensation, these switches actuate as swift as a coursing river. And when installed, they will make a click sounding like the potential energy of all of the force of a great typhoon being released in a fraction of a second with all of the strength of a raging fire!I got these for my Logitech G903 to fix the dreaded double click issue and they work great, no complaints as far as that is concerned... I just wish they were quieter, or at least not 10x as loud as the stock switches...There is absolutely no reason these things need to be that loud, hence the three stars. Otherwise, I would rate them a perfect 5/5.

Successfully replaced the switches on my original Intellimouse 3.0 from 2006. The left button was double clicking. These were the exact same switches. It feels brand new.I don't like newer mice. The sensors are not as good, despite the 50,000 dpi marketing jargon. Microsoft made two new versions of this mouse in recent years. Neither are as good as the original. Hence my need to replace the faulty buttons.In case you're wondering from the picture, mine has been modified over the years. I don't use side buttons, so I removed them to shed weight. I also sanded it down, drilled hundreds of holes and swapped the cord for a lighter paracord. Among other things.Here's to another 15 years.