DC Motor Speed Controller 10V-55V 12V 24V 36V 40A Stepless DC Motor Speed Controller with Forward-Brake-Reverse Switch,Ajustable Potentiometer &Digital Display

The media could not be loaded. Installed as part of a modification on a ride-in car for a very cautious 2.5 year old. This single speed 4WD jeep in stock condition was too fast for the student driver. I also added the capability to run the motors on 20V lithium drill batteries, using some relays and a "buck converter" (actually 18 bucks on Amazon) to reduce the voltage to 12V going to the stock controller box to avoid blowing out the radio and lights. I fantasize about using my 56V E-Go battery packs some day, so I chose a converter rated for up to 60V input (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HS19W8Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). The Tatoko hardware is well-built and solid. The output varies smoothly with the control knob (as judged by motor speed). The duty cycle indicator corresponds well to the average output voltage as measured by a multimeter; 70% duty cycle on 20V input batteries provides 14V output. This controller has a Forward-Brake-Reverse (F-B-R) rocker switch, which I believe is pretty much required for this type of application, since my understanding is that you cannot reverse the Input polarity on a PWM controller, so you will be replacing the stock F-B-R in the dash with the one provided with this controller. No extended tests, but the controller worked perfectly with me riding on the vehicle. Highly recommended. Some nits to pick with installation: It would be helpful to provide a packet of mounting screws and maybe a little paper template to locate mounting holes. Most garage mechanics won't have tiny metric screws lying around unless they've also worked on computers and electronics. The duty cycle indicator has no provisions for mounting. If you search for the part number, you can see that similar indicators are available with little mounting tabs. I marked and carefully cut the rectangular outline, taped it in place temporarily from the front, and used hot melt glue to secure it from the back. The rocker switch is smaller than the ones used on kids toys, so I needed to fabricate a plate to replace the stock F-B-R switch in the dash. The wire leads are also fairly short, providing limited mounting options. It would have been preferable to be able to mount the unit in the battery and controller compartment with wire leads running to the dash, as opposed to mounting the entire unit with short leads to the back of the dash. Finally, PWM controllers work by "chopping up" the DC output into a series of pulses. My multimeter read the average voltage, but the dash voltmeter flickers uncontrollably below about 70% duty cycle. It would be a nice feature to include a noise-free voltage output.

This works as expected. It provides plenty of power and works well overall. I'm happy with it.

Only four stars until I know how it holds up. My only real complaint would be that the pretty case it is in is a universal case and not specific to the board. Who cares for the price point. It's still secure but in heavy vibration and bouncing around the case may not offer the needed secure hold you might need. Fortunately I have the option to mount the board in the tool with out the need of the case also allowing me to add some shock avoidance to the mounting holes on the board and push better air around the sink.I've tested full rpm load of my motor with and without the controller and if it's hendering rpm or power at full speed then I can't tell by just observation. It's not hendering torque at ranges of 0 to 100. I have no rpm gauge so I don't know positive response but it appears to be close to correct.As far as full amp loads, I'll probably never need to pull that much amperage but I'm sure it'll handle it for a while without a fan for some cooling. However that's the thing I did. Added a muffin fan to the case for testing and after mounting with out the case in its racking it's got air moving around it better than inside the case it's in.Was easy to hook up but polarities were backwards on output. Read the actual board not the sticker for output polarities. The paper was was backwards on cw CCW hook up as compared to the board and the motor was a nema 17 and it proved it was backwards on wiring diagram. No biggie and I'm used to this phenomenon. It's seems like a lot of electronics from China are like this. But their still doing better than if I were trying to read Chinese and get it right.And this particular board smells like it's been heated up and smoked but that really not the case. Not for sure why the burnt smell. This is a little concerning as to holding up on use. Hopefully it's just the manufacturer process.

Hello!I don't write reviews, so for me to make time to write this one is a big deal. I t is worth the money. If you have a brushed application like the golden companion II mobility scooter like I have, you will be able to wire it up. It will work like factory new, but finding the right places to mount the dials and took some tooling. If you don't mind wire splicing and extending the leads, you could completely hide this thing in the rear under the seat.Overall, very good buy, My client loves it.PS the mobility shop ''couldn't'' find the replacement part as the dashboard had smoked. I am a third party repair contractor.

Finally got an opportunity to hook this thing up to my trolling motor. I painstakingly arranged the connectors so there was no possible way to hook it up wrong. Worked like a charm... until I disconnected it and connected it back up again. Nothin'. Checked all connections, switches, and dials. Everything checked out OK, just no power. I had a backup that I was going to give to my son for his trolling motor. That unit was DOA in the box. JUST over the 30 days to return it so they're trash. DEFINITELY wouldn't recommend such fragile units for riding around in a boat. If you still buy this thing, arrange your connectors such that WHEN it fails on you, you can disconnect the battery and the motor from the unit and connect the two leads together and still have a usable motor.

My sawmill has a 12V 20A motor for the power feed. The original lasted about 5 years. I decided to go the less expensive route in replacing the controller board. This one seems to be more robust than the factory controller. I had a small issue in replacing due to using the factory control switch which had a resistor spliced in the wiring. This was not the fault of the controller. The replacement would have gone fine if I found the resistor sooner.