Sunco 10 Pack T8 LED Bulbs 4 Foot, LED Fluorescent Tube Replacement, 4ft LED Tube Light, Ballast Bypass, 2200 LM, 18W, 6000K Daylight Deluxe, Single Ended Power, Frosted Lens, UL.

I'm returning these tubes to Amazon as they don't produce as much light as 'i beleive' they should. I have been refitting all my flourescent fixtures to LED. I have purchased hyperikon and SGL from Amazon; and now these Sunco. I could tell almost immediately that the Sunco where not as bright. I have a background in electronics so I used a digital light meter at a set distance from the same fixture and measured pairs of all three. The Hyperikon had an output of 1350+ lumens; Next the SGL, these had an output of1150 lumens but I suspect since these where frosted vs clear that I might get a slightly lower result. When the Sunco tubes where installed overall Lumens dropped to a paltry 850lumens. This is substancially less then the other two. All three manufacturers claimthey're tubes are rated for 2000 lumens (obviously i can't replicate their exact test setup to arrive at that figure but my testing procedure was balanced for all three). To put that in perspective, the original two T12 bulbs I replaced where putting outabout 550 lumens. These are frosted tubes like the SGL so If they where indeed putting out 2000, or close to 2000 lumens they should have been at least 'relatively close' to the SGL say give or take 100 lumens. The results where consistent for the entire 10 case of sunco tubes. I only had 4 of the hyperikon and 6 of the SGL tubes, but the results for these respective tubes where all the same give or take 5-20 lumens. In my humble opinion, I think, (but can not prove mind you) that either i got a badbatch of tubes that are using an inferior grade LED strip, (which would explain thelower output), or these tubes are not using the same grade of components as other manufacturers. This doesn't mean that it's a "bad product", the tubes worked just fine (though they did have that odd delay when first turned on like another reviewer mentioned). If I had extra tubes to sacrifice, and was not returning these I'd perform a "dissection" to see what design differences they're where in the power supply andlighting drivers, as well as a test of the strips themselves. And to see how much of a 'lumen hit' the frosted lenses has vs the clear. In conclusion, as the average user review just seems to say "nice and bright" or "very bright" I thought it would help people to know that "not all LEDs are created equal. In my case I am looking for maximum luminosity for my buck as these are being used in a workshop environment. If that's not an issue for you then they should work okay. As none of these tubes mentioned have been in use for any lengthof time i have no idea as to there reliability or longevity. So I'll post another entry on the two above in a year or so. Hope this helps

Purchased a set of these last October. Install was simple enough - all I had to do was remove the ballasts from the old lights. These are very bright and work great. It's so nice not to have the buzzing sound that comes from the old school lights. But, last week, two of these randomly stopped working. I contacted Sunco and was told that because I didn't buy these directly from them, they would not honor the 5-year warranty. So these were the first, and last, Sunco lights I'll be buying.UPDATE - 10/28/19: Apparently these are all nearing the end of their life as this morning I went out to find two more lighting's failing. They flickered for a while and then died. That's a failure of 4 bulbs out of 10 in just over a year. Sunco refuses to honor the 5 year warranty on these, so they are basically worthless.

Arrived in two days. All intact. Let me help with instructions: on T8 fixtures you do not need to remove the ballast. On T12 fixtures you DO need to remove the ballast and direct wire the sockets. However, the instructions are less than clear. On a standard T12 fixture, each socket on each end has one positive and one negative connection. That is not the case with these LED bulbs. You must wire black to one end, white to the other. However, only one pin on each end of each bulb is live (the other pin is just there to hold the lamp in the fixture) and the two pins that complete the circuit are diagonally opposite each other. Fortunately, all bulbs are identical, so once you figure out one, you've got 'em all. So you must either a) connect black to both wires in the socket at one end and white to both wires in the socket at the other end, or b) figure out using a multimeter which is the live pin on each end of the bulb and ensure there is a black wire to that side of the socket on one end and a white wire to the diagonally opposite side of the socket on the other end. I hope that is clear.Update: First let me say I am VERY satisfied with the tubes I bought previously (discussed above). They come on instantly at full brightness in the hottest of hot weather and the coldest of cold weather in my unheated Michigan garage, even in the dead of winter. They are very bright and I like the color (5,000K). They are all still working as good as they day I installed them several years ago. Bottom line: They are a VAST improvement over standard 4 foot fluorescent tubes in every respect.So I just bought another box to convert more fixtures. In my previous review I explained how to wire them properly. These new tubes are wired differently from the previous ones. On these, connect live (black) to one pin and neutral (white) to the other on one end of the tube. Do not connect anything to the other end of the tube. Neither pin on the other end carries any current; they are both dead pins there to hold the tube in the fixture. Again, the instructions aren't very clear; however, the bulbs themselves are marked. As before, remove the ballast from the fixture and discard it.

Only four out of ten worked right out of the box. The first two didn’t work, and I was trying to figure what I was doing wrong. Tried another fixture that worked with the fluorescent tubes I was replacing and wired it first double ended and used it with tubes out of the Parmida box I had also bought (all twenty tubes of those worked) and everything worked fine. Rewired to single ended for the Sunoco tubes and still nothing, so tried different sun o tubes and one out. Tried another Sunco tube and they both lit. Eventually worked my way through the entire box and had four bad bulbs, which I tried again, one at a time in place of Sunco tubes that were working and now of the four would work, so the lights were wired and working correctly with other Sunco tubes, but 40% seems an awful steep failure rate for new out of the box. BTW, I had converted from Fluorescent to LED an entire warehouse building we have during the lockdown and used 140 ETL eight footers and had zero bad bulbs.

Just received and installed eight of ten in a couple of hours. Very pleased with the results. Being frosted gives nice even but bright light. Some electrical savvy required to bypass ballast for best and most efficient results. Used some of the review tips on Amazon.com but basically all connections at one end can be line and the other end is neutral.

These lights met my expectations.They seem to be as bright as the slightly higher wattage bulbs they replaced.There is no delay when turning them on. No buzzing or flickering either, likely due to removing the ballasts prior to ordering these. Would have given 5 stars had one of the lights not been damaged. Not a shipping issue as the packaging was intact, no signs of bumping …It works, so I didn't return it, or seek a replacement for it.

Love these. They work with the ballast left in, but too many on the same run and weird things happen. pull the ballasts and they work great. I've bought about 40of these now.

Installed these without ballast and they work very well. The light from these are a very comfortable light. Much like a florescent. Will get more.

SEEM LIKE GOOD QUALITY. Much brighter than T8 bulbs. No interference with radio signal as the T8 Ballast does.