Rockville Rock Shaker 12 Classic Wood, 12" Powered Subwoofer, 800W, Deep Bass, Class-D Amp, RCA Inputs, Perfect for Home Theater & Studio

I purchased the sub for my son after he ditched his floor speakers and went with upper end bookshelf speakers. I have the same setup, 2 bookshelf speakers and a floor sub. Made an incredible difference. I'm not a huge audiophile, but the sub + bookshelf speakers is a great pairing. This not only gives great bass, but fills in the midrange quite well. This subwoofer is solid. Reasonable price for a clean bass addition. It does have phase control for multiple subs and volume/power adjustment.

Great value, sounds good and well built.

Wow, now this is another one of those audio products where initially I didn't even know where to begin.Alright, let me paint the picture on how I use my audio gear in order to set the stage. I used to be a hard-core audiophile years ago - actually, make that some 30 years ago. Since then I've retired and my cash flow scenario is quite limited. I haven't lost my audio standards - not by a long shot! However, the way I satisfy my audiophile cravings now-a-days is to maintain a desktop system by my desktop computer. I use a variety of DAC's (these things have spoiled me to the max), along with a variety of active (self-powered) Edifier speakers - those specifically being the R2000DB, the R1850DB, the R1700BT, and the 3000 Pro. Each of these speaker systems are capable of providing superb sound qualities, dependent on what you feed them with. Currently, I have the wonderful Edifier R1850's set up on either side of my 27" monitor. I previously had a 10" Velodyne woofer system setup under my desk, running longer Blue Jeans Cables LC-1 cables from them to the speakers.OK - now read closely here. Many folks falsely believe that you "must" have a subwoofer output on your active speaker for you to attach a subwoofer. Nothing could be further from the truth. The key here is find a powered subwoofer that has "both" RCA inputs and outputs. What you do then is to attach RCA audio cables running from either a DAC, or an Amplifier, or a Receiver to the inputs of the active subwoofer. Now use another set of RCA cables connected to the outputs on the active subwoofer to your active speakers. Now on the back of these subwoofers (the kinds who have both input and output RCA terminals), there should also be a frequency adjustment knob - or a switch. You just then set the frequency to the desire crossover frequency and what will happen then is that only those frequencies above the crossover point will be routed to your active speakers.My 15 year old Velodyne 10" active subwoofer has both of these RCA terminals (in and out), along with a remote, and various crossover knobs and switches. The problem is that the Velodyne is much too large and I constantly wound up hitting it with either my leg or chair. So I had to move the Velodyne to downstairs by my theater system arrangement.So what to do for a smaller replacement? I look at countless active subwoofers from a wealth of brands on Amazon and other outlets, all to little avail. I'd say that 98% of the available active subwoofers either have just one set of RCA inputs (no outputs), or they have just one subwoofer input connector.However, I did find two smaller (both 8") subwoofers that also included the "output" RCA connectors, and these are the:Emotiva Airmotiv S8 - 8" powered subwoofer (with both input and output RCA connections) - priced at $299 and is built like a tank with superb, tight, low frequency extension capabilities.and on the other end of the spectrum...The Rockville Shaker 8" active subwoofer that is nowhere as nicely constructed as the Emotiva above and only costs $95 or so - but it also has both input and output RCA connections - which is what intrigued me about this budget offering. Please read on...The Emotiva subwoofer was out of stock, otherwise I would have jumped on that one. So as a matter of sheer curiosity, I ordered the Rockville Shaker.When it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised to see it triple boxed, indicating that unless a truck runs over it, Rockville have ensured that the subwoofer will arrive quite safely. By the same token, I was also stunned at how light everything was - almost as if the weight was just the cardboard boxes (and not the contents).After opening the box and removing the subwoofer, I was sort of disappointed at how light it was - as if there were no guts or speakers at all in the very light enclosure. There was nothing special about the enclosure and it feels like it was composed of a very thin wood material. I looked through the subwoofer port in the rear and didn't see anything special - noticing what appeared as a generic speaker as the woofer. I couldn't see the electronics. On the other-hand, the rear with all of the inputs/outputs turned into a welcomed, pleasant surprise. There I witnessed far more options that you'd see on only far more expensive powered subwoofers to include the rarely found RCA inputs and outputs. It also has a removable AC power cord.So I plugged everything in, and selected roughly an 80-90 Hz crossover point using the frequency adjustment knob. The Edifier R1850DB's that I was using at the moment had a 4.5" woofer, so I felt that an 80-90 HZ crossover point would be ideal. A frustrating thing here is that the frequency adjustment knob has no indents or clicks and moves freely and easily. In addition, all the little indent markings do not have any frequencies written by them, so you're left guessing what they are. You have 150 HZ all the way to the right and 50 HZ at it's lowest turnover point to the left - but in between, there is nothing marked and the small indent markers are not logical (such as expected 5 or 10 HZ increments). Instead, they appear more like 3.5 HZ or some other strange scenario - so you're left guessing (ball park I suppose) at the frequency you are looking for the crossover point.In addition, if you don't have powered main speakers, you also have input and output speaker connections (using banana plugs) on the rear of the Rockville - another nice surprise.Alright - now on to the sound (bass). Now what I discovered is that yes, the Rockville will add a tremendous amount of bass, but you have to be very, very careful where you set the subwoofer volume level. I found that I moved the subwoofer volume level to just the 3rd or 4th indent level up to achieve the ideal balance between natural bass and the rest of the audio spectrum with the main speakers, otherwise the rest of your music will be overpowered with heavy, boomy bass.What I also noticed is that I was so glad that Rockville provided a removable power cord because with this power cord, the bass sounded more bloaty - not as tight as more expensive subwoofers. I noticed this specifically with instruments in a classical orchestra such as the string bass or cello that sounded overly boomy and bloating. I then reached for one of my audiophile power cords (which are quite thick and weighty), removed the stock thin power cord that came with the Rockville, and attached the WAudio 3.3FT AC Power Cable 10AWG HiFi Audiophile Power Cord with US Plug IEC Connector. The link for this cable on Amazon is (copy and paste the link if need be):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L2MBYWC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1With this audiophile quality cord attached, the quality of the bass was improved substantially, with tighter, less boomy qualities. I still maintained the volume level at 3 to 4 notches and everything balanced out nicely. The lower registers are handled with aplomb and the overall sound features a added richness. Now keep in mind that if the music you are listening to has no bass, don't expect the subwoofer to conjure up some bass. I always have to laugh when I hear some folks complain that a speaker has no bass - in particular, when certain musical arrangements may not call for bass. You'd be quite surprised to witness how many folks out there wish that their speakers "had more bass," as if to imply that the woofers should somehow "add" bass notes where none are called for.I realize all of this was wordy, but I wanted the readers to understand where I'm coming from. And why did I give this Rockville Shaker subwoofer 4 stars? Well quite frankly, for $95 USD, the overall build-quality and light weight will have you shaking your head with slight disappointment, but in the end the bass sound qualities can have you smiling. Now is this the subwoofer to add if you have $5000 main speakers? Hell NOOOOOOOOO. I would strongly recommend this Rockville for use under the desk of a computer system where the user has smaller bookshelf speakers on either side of a monitor or laptop. You will become quite surprised at how good this combo will sound.Now in revisiting the "add-ons" that I provided, it is always important to note that upgrading things like cables and in this case, an audiophile quality AC cable also - will bring incremental improvements to the sound reproduction. The cable I suggested above is inexpensive and you will be quite shocked at how large it is, but it will help quite a bit in tightening up that bass - that's for sure.I still intend on getting the Emotiva when they get it back in stock, but I'm downright satisfied with what I'm getting from this Rockville unit. Again - considering the inputs, outputs, and other options on the rear of the Rockville 8" Shaker subwoofer, the ridiculously low price of it ($95 USD and free shipping) - along with the bass output - assigning it 4 stars was not difficult. If it had a better build quality and heft to the system, I would have assigned it 5 stars. But hey...for under $100 USD, you must factor in that you get what you pay for.As is the case with any review of any audio product, your mileage may vary with how you use the items.

I bought the 15” and every window in my house shakes. My girl doesn’t like it as much. She says it makes her head rattle.

I needed a subwoofer to pair up with my ZVOX soundbar and this one works perfectly. Super sound and easy to setup, and pretty much just connect RCA jacks from subwoofer to soundbar and plug it in. Great sound and price, and will definitely recommend.

Very good sound. Excellent quality

Rockville makes Excellent Products and very Affordable Prices. Their Tower Speakers have Great Sound, and their Subwoofers really bring you into the Action. I recommend Rockville to everyone.

So Amazon apparently thinks a Rock Shcker 8" sub is the same as the 10" because my review for the 10" went on both!new review comments: And I got both. First a few lines about what I discovered with the 8" one I just got: for whatever reason, It's not nearly as loud as my 10" even though they are the same power. The difference could be the different inputs I used on each. I used the line level RCA inputs on the 10" and the high level speaker inputs on the 8". on the other hand, i put my hand on the speaker that I have facing rearward and it's moving quite a bit with the volume almost all the way up, yet it's still barely audible over the full range speaker on top, unlike my 10", which puts out authoritative noticeable bass starting at 1/4 volume...previous review:So there's some hilariously transparent, patently false claims made about this unit that even a novice knows better than to believe.That being said. still, this unit performs & puts out solid, tight bass even though its a reflex enclosure, which aren't noted for producing tight base. This powered subwoofer also has versatile connections and switches that you don't find on other cheap powered subwoofers. for instance, it has inputs and output in both the line level RCA jacks and the speaker level connections. You also will not find any other brand in this price range with the 100 watts rms power that this unit seems to have that aren't lying even more than this brand does.But wait, you say, the product retailer says this is is a 300 watt rms powered subwoofer! Yeah, but that's a big fat lie.In fact, this is NOT, cannot be, A 300W RMS powered subwoofer. To be a 600 Watt peak, 300 watt RMS output, ANY amp that produces that amount of power would need a 6 amp fuse and weigh at least 10 more pounds AND haveaty least 25% thicker MDF board. But this unit has a dinky 2 amp fuse. 2X 110VAC is 200 watts max power. Divide 200 in half and you get a rough estimate of the clean RMS power of 100 watts.Not only that but the this supposed 600W peak power unit HAS THE SAME VALUE FUSE as the supposed 400W amp with the 8" subwoofer, which means this is the same ampas the 8" one with a bigger speaker.Also a baldface lie is the claim that that you can turn this unit all the way up and still get clean sound. I did it to check. It is not clean. And it shouldn't be either because there isn't an amp and speaker system made that can claim that unless they've put a limiter on the volume knob to keep it from turning up above RMS power. However, even that is subject to variance depending on the signal input..More cons:.#1 The power cord is annoyingly short#2. The instructions are sparse and do not adequately explain all the connections on the back. i am going to have to call to find out more about them.#3 The MDF "board" the enclosure is constructed of is MDF paper board, not MDF wood board. In other words, this is cardboard particles that's compressed and glued together to make a board instead of the wood particles that MDF wood board is made from that you buy at Lowe's or Home Depot, which is much heavier and stronger. Also this is only 1/2" MDF paperboard when a box this size should be atr least 5/8" thick or , even better 3/4" thick. But that's IF it's really a 300 watt subwoofer system, which t hese ​definitely aren't.#4 The high level inputs and outputs are flat stupid,. There's left aAND right in and passthru, (but only in ​and out for the low input and pass thru). Like ANYBODY needs to connect BOth left and right stereo ​speaker wires to one subwoofer in a single position in the listening area and then back out to left and ​right stereo full range speakers on opposite sides of a room with wires to trip over! If near the ​receiver, like under it, then one would use the low level inputs and speaker wires from the ​receiver to the left and right front speakers. using high level speaker wire inputs a distance away, one ​will ALWAYS connect just one set of speaker wires to the input (because the other set of wiresis ​powering another speaker some distance away) and the high level pass thru out to the nearby ​(mine are on top) full range speaker.#5 Finally, this and all subwoofer units should be on legs and down firing, both on the port and the speaker, so that the bass coming out seems omni directional. TAnd actually, the port is the cheapest way possible to produce more sound. at only one frequency. a better more expensive solution is a passive radiator. In fact I've plugged the tubes of both of my subs and installed passive radiators in the face and cut new holes and remounted the speakers in the bottome with longert, better rubber feet. These,face firing unit s are ecidedly directional, seeming to come ONLy from the full range speaker it is nearest. Miy 10" sounds better, more like it's coming from everywhere in the room after I (ruined the warranty and) moved the sub to the bottom, extended the feet a bit and installed the cutout from the bottom in the front speaker hole and removed the port (for even tighter base and plugged that hole, and installed a passive radiator, which I'm doing the same for ty 8"..By comparison, to the Rockville Rockshakers, a Yamaha power 10" subwoofer, costing $200 on Amazon, claiming to be 100 watts is rated 100 watts at a whopping 10% distortion (1% is audible). which p[oves tahatIN NO CASE in this corrupt capitalist system, does one ever get what one pays for

Para el precio que tiene obtienes un gran producto bien terminado y con muy buena calidad por lo que sin duda se recomienda.

Es bueno, pero le falta calidad en la fabricación y en sonido. Ademas de que es muy ligero.

Product is amazing just like Amazon 👍