YOYI YOYIYOYI YOYI 3D Printer Filament, 95A TPU Filament 1.75mm, Flexible Filament, 0.8KG Spool,Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, Soft TPU Filaments of High Elasticity (Red)

This filament is flexible, but not super-elastic--which is sort of weird, because the filament itself IS stretchy--but the printed objects typically aren't...for example if you printed a drinking straw in "vase mode", the result would act much like a real drinking straw---you could easily collapse it with your fingers or bend it in half, but just like a plastic straw, you couldn't stretch it. (Don't use this to make straws incidentally; I doubt it's food-safe...but I digress:)I had a number of issues starting out with this, including blobbing ("zits"), stringing, under-extrusion and poor layer adhesion. Here is how I solved them, one by one:The under-extrusion was solved by watching a print: soon I realized that because the filament itself IS somewhat stretchy, that it was sometimes stretching and springing back during printer-head movements without actually advancing the filament spool---resulting in under-extrusion. This was solved by getting an upgraded spool-holder with low-friction ball bearings, so that even the slightest tug on the filament now turns the spool instead of just stretching the filament.I overcame the other issues in Simplify3D by using the following settings (all other settings left at the default for a 0.40mm nozzle starting from PLA at Medium quality):Extruder tab: Coast at End, 0.20mm; Wipe Nozzle, 5mm (this helped with blobs), no retraction, 1200mm/min (slow) Temperature: Primary Extruder, Layer 1 Temperature 250C (this solved the layer adhesion issue), heated bed 60C Cooling: Layer 1 Fan Speed 0 (basically no fan cooling at all, ever; to help with adhesion) Advanced: Perform retraction during wipe movement, Avoid crossing outline for travel movementsThe last two settings helped with blobs and stringing, respectively. I was sort of shocked that I had to go that high on the temperature and omit cooling entirely, but until I did that, the layers just weren't adhering properly, especially building something up at a 45-degree angle--the filament would just droop and fall past the previous layer. Making it really hot helped each new layer stick to the last one.Once those settings were dialed in, this printed just great on my direct-drive Qidi X-Plus. Bowden-tube printers typically have a harder time with flexible filaments, so remember that avoiding retraction is a huge help, and if you're still having trouble also try slowing down the print speed. (And check how your spool is feeding!)If flexy-but-not-terribly-elastic works for you and especially if you have a direct-drive extruder, you should be able to dial this in just fine and get some great prints with it!P.S.: I resurrected this filament a year after this original review, having simply set it on a shelf (no bag) and used it to build some replacement parts, and it still prints great. This time I'm printing at a more conventional 220C with 100% fan speed starting at layer 2, and it's working just fine. So it definitely has some great shelf life (with no particular care needed) and doesn't absorb moisture at all!The thicker your printed parts, the more solid (hard) they will seem. I made a rod with about 1/4" diameter and it's really flexible. I also printed a wedge-shaped door-stop, about 2" long and 3/4" tall at the wide end, and even with only 30% infill it's pretty much a solid stiff block. So keep that in mind when evaluating whether this filament will work for your purposes.Lastly, regarding the stretchy part, if you print something super-thin (like threads or rubber-bands) this filament DOES stretch quite a bit, but not as much as a regular rubber band would, and as the parts get larger, it basically gets harder and much more solid, not really rubbery at all.

I've been buying filament more and more from YOYI lately and for the most part have been completely satisfied; I have bought a few spools of PETG from them that had very sloppy windings on the spool, but I had no binding/tangling issues with said spools.I had some large TPU prints planned so I got a couple of spools of this "Living Coral" filament and again I've been satisfied. The windings on both spools have been cleanly set with even tension, and I had zero flow or adhesion issues.I ran some of this filament on my Flashforge Creator Pro for a bit, but the rest of my TPU printing has been on my JGAurora A5S, which has a 1 mm nozzle. I just used my "general TPU settings" in my slicers and had no issues on either printer. I want to note, that my Creator Pro is a direct drive extrusion system whereas my JGAurora uses a Bowden style extrusion system. So even with a properly dialed Bowden setup, this filament will print nicely. For reference, here's some of my settings:Flashforge Creator Pro, 0.4 mm nozzlesNozzle Temp: 210 degrees CelsiusBed temp: 40 degrees CelsiusBase speed: 20 mm/secTravel speed: 200 mm/secFlow: 120%Retraction disabled (for now...)Layer height: 0.2-0.25 mm with a initial layer height of 0.3 mmJGAurora A5S, 1 mm nozzleNozzle temp: 220 degrees CelsiusBed temp: 45 to 70 degrees Celsius, depending on print size in XYBase speed: 12 mm/secTravel speed: 300 mm/sec *I suspect the machine moves at about 250 mm/sec in actualityFlow: 150%Retraction: 8mm @ 20 mm/sec speedLayer height: between 0.4 mm and 0.5 mm with an initial layer height of 0.5 mm.I hope my settings are of some help! Ever since I've gotten them dialed in, I've been printing with TPU more often, since it's such a physically tough compound. For a nice colorful touch, this Living Coral filament does the job nicely!

This is NOT shore durometer 85a. I have some ninjaflex that I bought that I compared it with, which is known to be 85a. This stuff is way harder. There is a mistake in this listing. This is the second time I got some TPU that is too hard, and now I have to drive all the way out to the ups dropoff place to return this stuff. That's a half hour drive, all because you didn't describe your product correctly.

Es un filamento TPU, lo que significa que va a ser mas complicado de imprimir que PLA o ABS. Debes saber es que el TPU es super sensible a la humedad y lo primero que debes hacer al abrirlo es deshidratarlo. Eso garantiza buenos resultados con TPU, ya sea con un deshidratador de comida o uno específico de filamentos, ponlo mínimo unas 2 horas a 60°C y luego ya lo puedes usar (y debes deshidratarlo cada vez que lo vas a usar). Haciendo lo anterior se imprime facil teniendo en cuenta que el TPU se imprime muuy despacio y en un rango un poco mas alto de temperatura que PLA, en mi caso entre 215 y 220 se imprime bien pero debes probar cada rollo.Comparto mis configuraciones de velocidad para dar mejor resultados, ojala le ayuden a alguien. Mi impresora es una Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus, con mods de mejora de rigidez (angulos en los postes superiores/inferiores), mod de base para pelotas de tenis y resortes en los brazos para evitar vibración. Estás mismas configuraciones las use en una ender 3 sin mods y también dan buenos resultados usando TPU sainsmart.La aceleración bajarla a 500mm/s ayuda a evitar que despegue las impresiones aun en PLA.Sin importar la marca de TPU deben imprimir despacio (de 20 a 30mm/s max) y deben hacerlo después de deshidratar el rollo.Esta marca china me dió buenos resultados y se ve increíble, si es rojo translúcido brillante aunque siento es un poco mas flexible/fragil que el de sainsmart que cuesta casi el doble... Si es rollo de 800gr, y lo volvería a comprar.

Lo use para elaborar sujetadores de sensores infrarrojos y funcionan muy bien

I love this filament. It prints great even on a Bowden setup. It looks amazing. Very happy. Go slow and you will be fine.I printed this filament at 15mm/sec at 215C on 50C heated Bed. Overall I'm very pleased with how this filament prints, even on a stock Monoprice Select Mini V2. Print with more infill or walls for a tougher or stiffer part. Othe

I liked ever thing