SmartSHIELD -20mm 48" X25ft Reflective Insulation Roll, Foam Core Radiant Barrier, Thermal Foil Insulation Panel - 0.8 Inch Thickness, R-23

I have used this stuff in a variety of places in my house. It is very versatile for insulating.I put it in the space between the top of my basement walls and bottom of the main floor (inside). The furnace ran noticeably less the first winter (with fiberglass behind it).Because this comes in a roll, the closer to the middle, the more curled the product will be. Bending it in the opposite direction helps. Also, have a plan to secure it down as it will want to bend. Or, set something on top of it and lay it flat for a few days.The 20mm product is 3/4 inch thick and is best cut with a serrated knife or scissors.

If you cut in long strips, ie. 8' or16 ' for a double wide door, there is not enough product to complete door. To complete door you must cut in the 48" legenth. Product doors fine

no instructions but i called the customer service and asked how. phone was answered by a knowledgeable friendly human being. after installing it i cant feel the heat coming thru my garage door anymore. i bought this as a test to make sure it works and it does. ill be buying more to do my RV door.

I used this product to insulate from the top of the basement walls to the sills. It was easy to cut and install. There has been a marked difference with no cold air entering the basement.

I purchased a 25-foot roll of 48" wide 20mm insulation material directly from SmartShield -- and two rolls of "improved" double stick tape. The aim was to reduce heat transfer in the morning from an east-facing aluminum garage door.First, forget SmartShield's tape, I found it to be worthless, ... at least for the heavier insulation material. And I was assured by the contact person at the company in Florida that I would be getting a serviceable tape product. Nah. What I wound up using was "Gorrilla Double-Sided Tape" -- with a light blue liner tape. It did the job for me. I'm pretty sure there are other tape options. (For a 1 1/2 car garage door I used fully 4 rolls of this tape.)Now for the insulation material. It came rolled up tight, which made handling the last half of the roll a bit of a challenge; I re-rolled that material backwards to reduce the curl. The foil lining on both sides is quite thin and fragile, so use care in handling. The 20mm material is too thick to cut with a regular cutter, so I switched knifes several times, from pocket knives to belt knives, and finally to a Victorinox serrated kitchen knife (red handle) that worked like a charm.I made the mistake of ordering 48"-wide insulation (see above on "strategy" first!). I planned to use that to install VERTICAL runs on the inside of my garage door (the rough distance between ribs/hinges). That ran into the problem of flex when the door opens. Were I doing it again, I would order narrower material that I could install in single runs horizontally ACROSS the door, this eliminating the flex issue.Cutting the pieces to correct size was something of an issue for me, so I covered my gaps/mistakes with 3"-wide aluminum tape made for HVAC uses. Worked like a charm, though I see I'm advertising the tape brand quite effectively (for anyone inside the garage). I used the same tape to patch areas where the foil had been damaged, either in packaging or in my handling.Speaking of tape -- surface preparation is really important. My door had a lot of waxy lubricant residue. So I (1) washed all the taping surfaces with a solution of ammonia; then (2) went over the same areas again with a serious degreaser (Formula 409), after which I rinsed with clear water; and finally (3) went back over the same areas with 70% rubbing alcohol. As I was installing double-stick tape, I would come on small areas (particularly around hinges) that I had missed; in which case I would rub thoroughly with a dry cloth and then treat with alcohol. Seemed to work fine.I can't speak yet about the effectiveness of insulation (just installed yesterday), but it can't possibly not make SOME difference when the morning sun is beating square on this door! Good success!

Shot small attic door with 16gauge nail gun so nails were sticking out like spikes on other side. Cut a piece to match door size and then pressed it down on the nails. Then fold nails over like brads to hold the foam square in place. If you use long enough Brad nails, you can fit two pieces on and bend the nails over. The wood door used to be hot in the summer soaking up that attic heat. Feels room temperature now.

I've been challenged by the cooler nights and keeping our above-ground pool to remain swim-worthy as we move toward winter. I had to purchase two rolls of this product to wrap our 9'x17' soft sided pool, and there is a gap on both ends where our ladder/platform sits and the end where the tubes go in and out, but it made a difference immediately in helping maintain the temperature longer than leaving it as is had done. It's now too past the season (once nighttime temps hit the 40s, it's over), but I know this product will help my pool get back into the swim zone earlier than usual once Spring time arrives. Glad I took the plunge on this one!

I used scissors to cut it to size and added it to the outside wall in cabinets, pantry, closets and the outside storage area that was also the bed and closet base. Helped a lot more than layers of the silver bubble stuff did to keep the chill out at night. Would definitely recommend it. Too bad RV manufacturers don't use it and make the side walls better insulated.